New hotels, art and cuisine make dallas the place to be

Since it was put firmly on the map by that TV series, Dallas has maintained a reputation for cowboy cool. Resolutely patriotic, Dallas residents keep their fingers firmly on the pulse while staying true to their roots - and I, for one, can't get enough of its sophisticated Southern style.

Upon arrival, I check into the ridiculously hip W Dallas Victory Hotel (001 214 397 4100; WHotels.com/Dallas) on Victory Park Lane. With a horse-and-cowboy motif on the curtains in the lobby, the country bumpkin décor proves that even the trendiest places in this city can't help but add a Texan touch. After enjoying a few Texan-sized bellinis by the infinity pool, I join a few friends for lunch at the in-house eatery, Sammy's BBQ. Texans take their barbecues very seriously, and Sammy's doesn't disappoint. With buffet-style service and down-home atmosphere, this place is straight-up local territory. I quickly catch the eye of a tall one named Billy (what else?) and find myself saying yes to dinner that evening. I now understand what they mean by Southern charm.

With the largest urban arts district in the US, it is a real shame to visit Dallas and not squeeze in some of the culture. However, I'm in a hurry, so I head to the North Park mall for a slightly superficial take on modern art. This retail space has hosted works from Henry Moore, Andy Warhol and many others. But before I know it, the sales assistant in the Neiman Marcus department store (001 214 363 8311; neimanmarcus.com) is sending me on my way with more new pairs of shoes than is sensible. Surely Sue Ellen didn't carry her own bags?